Bulgarian Heritage - Diamond in the rough

First, a Michael
Caine moment, Bulgaria is the third most densely populated site in Europe for sites of ancient heritage. A diamond in the rough then, in some cases, literally. I was very pleased to get accepted to go to Stara Planina region in the Balkans, as part of a European skills development exchange last April. I am
a big fan of Eastern European culture, finding the history fast-moving and fascinating, the cuisine veggie friendly and the music foot-tapping.

When asked about Bulgaria a quick straw poll amongst family
and colleagues saw it as being either darkly, anonymously communist or free enterprise run amok. Both options are premised, rather stereotypically, upon conceptions of Bulgaria’s political identity. Whilst both are “wrong”, both have a basis in some truth, in that these polar opposites effect how the
heritage sector is dynamically controlled.

In Bulgaria:
Our group was mixed; public sector employee, craft worker,
artist/photographer, retired volunteer and a freelancer, myself who usually works with the independent sector. One of the side benefits was the diversity of approaches, observations and recommendations we shared amongst ourselves, and with our hosts. Thus the learning was augmented, not just by our
experiences of Bulgaria, but by mixing with our UK peers, most of whom we might never have encountered otherwise. Our main guide/translator was generous with her time and enthusiasm, well beyond our requests and saw herself as an
ambassadrice for her home nation. Her grasp of technical language and nuance was second to none. The transport was safe, comfortable and well driven, with good roads at least until we hit the tracks. The accommodation warm and clean,
even, on occasion bordering on the luxurious. The food and drink was plentiful and tasty. Our itinerary was well planned, yet intense with a variety of venues from several parts of the Stara Planina region. In our behind-the-scenes staff
meetings we were given access to people and places that we would never, as tourists, have had opened to us. The staff and museum professionals we encountered were enthusiastic that we would leave with a good impression of the country and their work. We were shown the three levels of heritage operations –
national, regional and local museums. We also saw something of the independent sector too.

Heritage Context:
Bulgaria has much of a “best kept secret” about it. Yet little is known about it. This, fascinating cultural heritage, coupled with a natural and largely unspoiled natural heritage recommend the country as a top tourist destination. Yet, it has no co-ordinated tourism strategy. The work of Sheila, director of tourism
for Stara Planina, ploughs a lone furrow in her attempts to redress the imbalance between the largely self-sustaining Black Sea resorts and the forgotten wonders inland.

The Valley of the Thracian Kings contains some 40,000 burial mounds, many potentially with hidden treasure, if the anthropologists understanding of Orphic burial is correct. Yet these are afforded no civil protection, and there are hints, by disempowered museum archaeologists, that the government is a silent bystander in attempts to plunder and explore archaeological sites. Any treasure and relics enter the national stock, albeit in private hands, and become part of the national legacy, though neither ownership, care or provenance belongs to the state. Even those items held by millionaire collectors, are borrowed by the government for exhibitions of national importance, as a recent show in China testifies.

Stara Planina also has a rich folk life. The village in Etara, the Korlovo mummers mask museum and the woodcarving museum in Tryavna testify to the continuity afforded to these techniques and their curatorship under the socialist regime. There is much scholarship and enthusiasm surrounding ethnography in this area, and to a large extent the poverty of contextualisation does little justice to the artefacts and practices themselves.

Etara, however, is a notable exception and arguably a case study in funding and diversification, which the UK heritage sector would do well to heed. They receive only 20% of their funding from the state, yet manage to maintain an international reputation amongst their kind. They run their own hotel, and have a sublet restaurant and franchised workshops where artisans are guaranteed a steady footfall of visitors to sell their work. This business diversity allows the museum to carry on with its core business whilst still ensuring a healthy cashflow. The park also seems to be a family venue, used as a partner for the celebration of Easter, and other feast days, it is thus a “day out” rather than a dry educational opportunity.

A bit about the financial and administrative context: With much of the Highlands, even with tourism, still dependent upon public finance, I sought to get an understanding of how the Bulgarian heritage sector is organised and how that effected operations, strategy and policy. It seems that the museums are organised in three strata – nationals, regional and local museums. The National museums are answerable to the government and are quite often used as showcase establishments for the heritage sector. Each region has a regional museum, answerable to the government, which has also an obligation to support the adjacent local museums, which are to a large extent self-funding, what we in the Highlands call a “hub and core” model. There is a great deal of interest in European money for both project and capital funding, but there is little evidence of that, as yet. Many folk complain that entry to the EEC has brought little except increased prices. However, the Iskra history museum at Kazanlak, seems to have gained an impressive new gallery, though the subject matter - Thracian gold treasure – is at the showbusiness end of archaeology and heritage.

Heritage professionals, and associated academics are not well-paid, yet seem devoted to their job and have a mission to show the world the fascination of Bulgaria. Several we met, particularly the younger ones, or those from the nationals, have a command of English and seemed to enjoy using it.

With regard to governance culture, it might be inferred that Bulgaria is in transition, between the Old Guard desire to hold and control, and the challenges afforded by the both free markets and the recent entry into the EEC. Whilst the lev still remains the currency, many operations, particularly those in Sofia and tourist-driven ones, will gladly accept Euros.

Some words, now in interpretation: At our meeting with the director of the National Technological museum, she indicated that she taught museum skills to graduate students in Sofia, yet it seems that there is little in the way of applied practice in this field on display. Even the National History Museum seems to offer antiquities with only captioning in evidence, and whilst the gold artefacts are themselves breathtaking, modern museum practice would indicate that more about their provenance and context would yield greater educational benefits. It may be however, that the strategy, is set thus to stimulate purchase of guide-books in appropriate languages.

In addition, there is a lack of evidence of digital or multimedia interpretation. In particular such techniques would lend themselves beautifully in a, non-invasive way, to the complexes at Etara and Bozhentsi village, where self-guided walking tours would enhance the experience. At Karlovo, video film of the mummers costumes in spectacular action, would enhance the aura of the exhibition.

Volunteering is very different in Bulgaria. In the UK, much is made of the ability of the heritage sector to work with volunteers, particularly retired ones, thus ensuring benefits of healthy aging, and a skilled and enthusiastic workforce. In Bulgaria there seems to be little evidence of this and the concept is almost alien (barring the folk dance/play participants in Etara). When we enquired, we were told that there is little actual retirement, as there are few pensions worth anything these days. Yet the citizens might have much to offer, both as respondents for oral history interview and as labour for certain duties. There is some interest in the fall of the socialist state, and the transition back to free-market economies, which would provide a fascinating information to understand the changes of the last 20 turbulent years, in both a national and local context. Many museums in the UK have “friends of” organisations, which do small amounts of maintenance work and fundraise, both in a hands-on and strategic way.

Modern interpretation of theological view, influenced by iconography.

In contrast to much of the rest of what we have seen, the capital city, Sofia, seems awash with money, as befits a modern European capital. Yet, with some notable exceptions, the same imbalance occurs with respect to funding in the heritage sector. The museum of Science and Technology seems to suffer from underfunding, yet holds strong to its commitment to school age education, adhering to vivid displays of scientific principles, by its demonstrator. Its exhibition does much to tell the story of Bulgarian science, a contribution worth telling, whilst on a tight budget. Interactive displays, so much the key feature of Western science museums is minimal. In the Roman Cathedral, we were lucky to be taken on an unofficial tour of the excavation of the basement tombs, by the lead archaeologist. Noticeboards seemed to explain in great detail the process, as planned. It seemed that there was much to be done and that, as befits all public projects, progress is slow. By contrast, the Sofia Circus hotel has considerately integrated a segment of the Roman Amphitheatre into its design, a breathtaking achievement, financed by the room fees of the Nouveau Riche Sofian guests.

If Bulgaria is to become a major player on the international tourist stage, it needs to integrate regional and local tourism initiatives into a national one. It has much to offer, both in terms of natural and cultural heritage.

The standard of static interpretation is low, both in an ethnographic and archeological context. While the enthusiasm of guides and experts is evident, the application of some modern self-led techniques would be enormously beneficial.
Museums could try to integrate the local community and generate volunteers from all demographic groups.

Nationally, the government should be encouraged to understand the value of Bulgarian cultural heritage and its potential for tourist draw. They should assert the states claim to found treasure and encourage museums to be independent; to take charge of their own strategy and funding. Recent history, particularly the transition from the socialist state, is also of interest to the West, though played down by Bulgarians.

Personal Highlights.

The palimpsest of habitation that is Sofia.
Chancing upon a gold-crested temple or monastery glanced through the trees.
Public sculptures from the communist era, still standing.
The friendliness and enthusiasm of the museum staff.
The folk dancing and play at Etara
Yoghurt with walnuts and honey
Kamenetsa Lager
The helicopter gunship at the National History Museum
The story of Bulgarian Icons, Dryanova
The museum of Humour and Surrealism, Gabrovo
Huge empty factories, Gabrovo, and the irony of the craft leatherworking stalls being a kilometre away from what was the largest leatherworks in the Eastern bloc.
Bemisted, and guessing what the view was like at Shipka Pass

Bulgaria is a fascinating country, with friendly people, beautiful scenery, a fascinating history and a great many sites of cultural heritage. It is still superb value, so get in quick.